Hokkaido Trip! (Namba, Chitose, Sapporo, Niseko)

Mt. Yotei seen from Niseko ski resort

I heard Colorado and other parts of the States have been getting a lot of snow lately. You all might be getting tired of snow, but I was jealous (it never snows here! I miss it). So I finally took that trip to Hokkaido I have wanted to do since coming to Japan.

Flight from KIX to New Chitose (Hokkaido is the large northern island)

Getting everything to work out smoothly was quite the challenge. I ended up having to catch a train down to Osaka City on Thursday night to be able to make an early 7am flight from Kansai International Airport.

Namba, Osaka with a classic tourist photo of the Glico advertisement

There was a cheap hotel just south of Namba (night-life central of Osaka). I haven't had too many chances to explore Namba (been focused on too many other areas). On the way down, I wandered through Namba to explore a bit more. Checked in at my hotel (a very modest building designed to give salarymen a place to sleep if they miss the last train after work and drinking).

This is what a 900 yen (~$9) hotel room looks like

Also on the topic of budget, there is this funny little airline called Peach that does domestic flights for extremely cheap. My flight experience was great, but I have heard other people say they found Peach a little too cheap (in a sense, you get what you pay for). When you start thinking about airplane horror stories, any odd noise the engine makes can be scary. And I can't imagine the staff working there gets paid well...

Walking out towards the Peach flight to Hokkaido

After a quick 2 hour flight into New Chitose Airport, I caught a train into Sapporo (the capitol of Hokkaido Prefecture) to run around for the day. The weather was great (felt just like Colorado climate).

Arriving at Sapporo Station Friday morning

Walked around, took in the city, and explored Odori Park (where the annual Snow Festival was held a few weeks ago). Unfortunately, there wasn't much left of the snow festival, besides large piles of snow where sculptures once were (oh well!). I made my way over to Susukino at the recommendation of a friend as 'something to see in Sapporo'. There was a lot of activity from both tourists and locals, but many of the shops were closed midday. Seems to be more of a night-life area, no big surprise. It took me a little too long to figure out what a majority of the establishments tucked-away in Susukino were for, though.

Susukino, a well-known Sapporo entertainment district

Late evening, I finally caught one more train from Sapporo through Otaru to Niseko. Niseko is one of the most well-know international ski resorts in Japan (in that respect, it's fair to compare to Vail, Colorado). I was staying in Annupuri, Niseko (1 of the 4 main resorts connected to form the larger Niseko mountain area). Annupuri is by far the most quiet (a modest little village with a few lodges and onsen). That was extremely nice and cozy, though it made going out for dinner late at night much harder (and slightly more expensive once the shuttle buses stop running late at night).

Check out the color of that rental jacket!

I think it would be fair to say there are almost as many (if not more) Aussies/Europeans than there are Japanese in the area. Take that as you will. I stayed in the main bunk room for (relatively) cheap, which meant meeting some other extremely friendly foreigners that made great ski-buddies.

Saturday ski day at Niseko (Mt. Yotei is always visible on a clear day)

Snow quality was fantastic. Niseko (and other ski resorts in Hokkaido) are famous for powder (and for good reason). With that said, the international popularity means some areas get over-skied (and I realized the reason everyone is so powder obsessed in this part of the world seems to be because the snow that isn't powder tends to be poor). But if you know where to look (and travel with the right group of people), it's easy to find great powder fields. I would say slightly more consistent, but very similar in quality and feel to the back-bowls of Vail. (I do now have a strengthened appreciation for skiing in Colorado after seeing how much other people spent just to stay in Niseko). What really made the trip worth it was the chance to meet lots of other solo-ski travelers and practice Japanese with the locals on gondolas (luckily, the vocab for the usual gondola conversations is really easy: "where are you from?" "are you enjoying your day?" etc).

Had to hike a bit for this run, but finally found some fluffy knee-to-waist deep powder fields

Skied a full day from early morning to closing (night skiing continued to about 8:30pm). In the late evening, I caught a bus out to Kutchan (the closest major non-resort town) to get some ramen at a reasonably priced Michelin star-ranked shop. A modest, almost hole-in-the-wall place, you wouldn't expect much from it. But the meal was delicious. When I started asking questions about the food in Japanese, one of the older woman running the place jumped nearly a foot and her eyes really lit up. She was extra attentive after that.

Hokkaido: known for its beer and ramen

Completed the experience with a visit to the nearby Annupuri Yugokorotei Onsen. Also modest in size, the onsen featured a rather hot indoor bath with an outside pool surrounded by snow. When I went, it was pretty much just myself and a bunch of older Japanese men.

Cute Japanese Onsen instructions

Not my own picture, can't take pictures for obvious Onsen reasons

Sunday afternoon, I caught a shuttle bus back to Chitose Airport from Niseko. Since there is basically nothing but snow and trees for miles between Niseko and Chitose, we took a rest stop at some random barn in the middle of nowhere that specialized in mushrooms (the legal kind).

Lots of mushrooms? Kinda odd but OK

In Chitose, I had a couple hours to kill before my flight. That wasn't really a problem though because New Chitose (very recently renovated) has lots of space dedicated to touristy shopping, cheezy museums, and Doraemon (kids anime show character).

Chitose is actually a pretty fun airport (pictured: Doraemon)

"Smile Road," with chocolate shops, a Hello Kitty store, Doraemon, and another Pokemon Center

Hung out with a polar bear in the nature area (not real)

Peach doesn't have fun airplanes like this one

Finally, a crazy story. On Saturday, while I was standing at the base of the mountain, a group of Japanese guys walked up to me and asked if I could take their picture. I took a picture for them, and one of them commented that we had the same jacket (it's not every day you see a bright neon yellow jacket!). After that, we parted ways. Sunday night, my return flight was delayed (Peach borrows the gates from larger ANA, and ANA wanted to use the gate at the expense of Peach...). This meant that by the time the flight arrived at KIX, the last train to Hirakata had already stopped. But while I was standing there, a Japanese guy about my age walked up and waved and showed his phone with the picture I had taken the day before! Apparently, he was also visiting friends for the weekend, and was flying back to his home in the Osaka area. While we stood there contemplating how we would both get back, he called his mom and got a ride from her. But the incredible part, he insisted they could take me up to Hirakata (about a whole hour out of the way!). Unbelievable. And it demonstrates some of the incredible luck I have had on this trip.

Chinese New Year in Kobe and Fushimi Inari Shrine

Classes are finally starting to settle into a routine. Also started working in the Writing Center this past week (which has been incredibly busy, but incredibly fun!). Met my Speaking Partner Wednesday night! And Thursday, we went to eat yakiniku with a friend's speaking partner (4 Japanese, 4 gaijin).

Yakiniku: all you can eat meat barbecue

On Saturday, we celebrated Chinese New Year by catching a series of trains to Kobe. Kobe has a very large immigrant population, and possibly the most vibrant Chinatown in Japan (Nanjing Town). There were too many people for us to see any of the dances (so many people!) but we got to eat some really great vendor food.

Chinese New Year in Nanjing town (w/other people!)

Afterwards, while in Kobe we walked down to the harbor area (where there is a large tower with a number of funky buildings along the coast).

Kobe Merikan Park

On Sunday, I went on a class field trip to Fushimi Inari Shrine (the iconic one with all the torii gates!).

Bottom of the mountain, the torii begin

Fushimi Inari site map

There are hundreds and hundreds of torii that mark the mountain path all the way to the top. So many torii! (And also lots and lots of people until you get near the top, then it is really quiet and peaceful). 

Among the torii

Inari is a kami (god), one of the most iconic, principle kami in Shinto. Often portrayed as a fox he (generally he) is patron of fertility, rice, agriculture, and industry.

The shrine had ema resembling inari fox silhouettes.
Many people got creative with it and drew funny faces 

Ema are wooden Shinto-based 'prayer boards' you can buy to write a prayer request to a kami. They are generally hung up at most shrines and some temples.

Milk and cookie offerings to inari

You can buy torii at varying price-levels (extra luck for your business)

A (mostly) friendly neko (cat) followed us up the mountain 

There are decorated inari statues everywhere

Lots of mini-shrines tucked away everywhere
I really want to come back at night - sounds spooky

Shimenawa ring - passing through is purifying, marks sacred space, especially around New Years

Another torii, this one is bigger

Finally, Sunday night we went for karaoke. Japanese karaoke definitely live up to the hype! You might not be suprised to hear 'Let It Go' is still really popular hear. And lots of Taylor Swift. And lots and lots of anime music. 

Currently, I am preparing for a weekend ski trip in Hokkaido. (I've been hearing about how much snow everyone has been getting back home, and I miss it!). Until then, that's all for now!

Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri (Star Festival)

Wednesday, we had class off for National Foundation Day. Thanks to my 'Religion in Japan' class, I ended up catching a train over to Kyoto to see the 42nd Agon Shu's Hoshi Matsuri (Stars and Fire Rites Festival). Agon Shu is classified as a Japanese 'New Religion,' and is based in Buddhist practices with strong Shinto influences. 

I wanted to be at the festival for the opening, which meant departing about 7am. (the small group that would have joined me ended up deciding to sleep in last minute...). The train dropped me off at Kiyomizu Station (one of the temples we visited a few weeks back), and instead of taking a transfer to the Kyoto main station and catching the Agon Shu shuttle bus, in a pig-headed moment I decided to walk to the festival grounds. What looked like a half hour walk on the event map turned out to be a couple hour walk on the side of a narrow mountain highway. When I got closer to the festival, I saw an event staff woman holding a sign that said "busu" for 'bus' and I managed to ask if it was still possible to catch the shuttle bus (30 minutes from Kyoto). She laughed and pointed up the mountain and said something about 'climbing.' That ended with me having to hike up the mountain to the festival grounds (with event staff and Agon Shu Yamabushi monks that were directing the shuttle buses all telling me "kiotsukete kudasai" - "please be careful" - read:'are you lost?').

By the time I made it to the festival grounds (just after it started), I was surprised not to see anyone around (where were all the people mobbing everything? this isn't a festival...). I wandered around for a bit until one of the event staff called me over and asked if I spoke English (yes). He then motioned for me to follow and they took my to the information tent, where a Japanese student was working as one of the couple English speaking representatives. My question "where exactly am I?" confused him because we were 30 minutes from Kyoto by bus, and it was probably pretty hard to just 'wander onto the temple grounds.' He pointed in a direction, and tried to explain the event by waving his arms and saying "campfire."

Campfire, indeed. 

Approaching the main festival square, where there is fire

The pyre on the left is the "Goma-dan for the Living" and the right is the "Goma-dan for the Departed"

The Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri commemorates "peace and harmony" for the year. Yamabushi monks and religious members from all generations work tirelessly all day to keep the fire well fed and the logs wet (to contain the fire, I assume).

It's impossible to really get the feel of the event in just pictures, so here's a video link.
Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri - Youtube

One of many groups performing throughout the festival (lots and lots of people)

When I arrived in the morning, this area was completely empty

Those stuffed gomagi look really happy pre-fire

At the festival, you could buy Gomagi (prayer sticks) at varying prices (100 yen, 1,000 yen, 3,000 yen, 5,000 yen, 10,000 yen each) (100 yen ~= $1). Festival goers write either a wish (for the ShinKai pyre) or the name of a departed one (for the Bukkai Pyre). The gomagi are then handed over, bundled up, and given to the monks to be thrown in the fire with a short prayer.

Gomagi (left says "Buddhahood memorial", right is blank)

The (very small) scattering of foreigners that were at the festival were handed brochures in an English version to explain what was going on (rather thoughtful). One of the pages included a stamp page.

Collecting stamps around the festival area

Gathering all the stamps rewards you with a nice little charm

Walking down to the return shuttle buses, visitors were handed walking sticks

The pictures may not show it, but I ended up staying just about all day just watching people run around and throw prayer sticks into the huge pyres. Definitely a very different experience!



The weekend was much more relaxed, comprising mostly of going out to eat, trying to work on a school paper, and studying. On Sunday, we went out and explored a similar area of Hirakata City. Looked at many, many different electronics stores. Along the way, we stopped at Kappa Sushi (for the conveyor belt/train sushi experience).

Reasonably priced conveyor belt / train sushi!

Train sushi! - Youtube

Yum

Afterwards, we went back to the park I saw a week or so ago (and I completed one more thing off my Japan bucket-list: slide down the giant green slide)!

Wheeeeeeeeee

Sliding down the slide! (mind the sound at beginning, sorry...) - Youtube

Otaku Day in Osaka

First week of class is over! I was placed in Spoken and Written Japanese 3 (equivalent to 4th semester Japanese at CU Boulder, Genki II textbook chapters 17-23). I also will be taking 2 elective classes in the afternoon for a total of 14 credit hours (dropping the literature class because, although I really want to read the selected works, I don't intend to spend my free-time in Japan reading novels).

Reading material for each course comes in a thick booklet of assembled readings

Thursday, I interviewed for a job at the Writing Center on campus (the only real paid position available to us on a student visa). Found out Saturday that I was accepted! Which means I will be working ~5 hours a week taking appointments and helping Japanese KGU students with essay writing, academic papers, and resumes & job interviews. Should be fun! Job orientation was this Monday, and I will start next week (Feb. 16th).

I did end up buying a bike (paid around $68 at a 2nd-hand bike shop near campus). The registration process is extensive (legally, bikes are in most cases considered cars - a DUI on a bike will likely get you jail-time, leading to being deported, possibly permanently). Most bikes here are single gear with a built-in lock system and a light powered by friction with the front tire.


Saturday I spent most of the day biking around Hirakata City. There are a ton of cool neighborhood areas hidden away that are much easier to find on a bike. And lots and lots of really cool parks!

It's really nice how busy the parks are - there are always families there doing something

I want a giant green slide near my house!

I wouldn't say Hirakata is especially bike friendly, but it isn't the worst

I was trying to meet up with a group of friends, but selected the wrong store on Google Maps which turned out to be one town over... Oh well, I did get to do a full day of biking and see a good portion of the city. 

Sunday, ended up as a full day dedicated to all things otaku (Pokemon, manga, anime...). Woke up early and caught the train into Osaka City to visit the Pokemon Center (a store specializing in all things Pokemon). 

Pokemon Center, Osaka City

People playing on their 3DS everywhere

Hey look, I am in a picture! 

Hopped back on a train and went to the 2015 World Hobby Fair that was happening at the Osaka Dome. It's this giant, admission-free promotional convention for kids to wait in reaaaaally long lines to try out free arcade games. (We went to check it out, not knowing the target audience really was much younger kids).

Common observation, videogames (especially Nintendo) seem to be viewed as primarily for children. Everyone grows up on games and shows like Pokemon, but most people seem to graduate from Nintendo around or before high school. That is true in the States, to be sure, but the divide is much more noticeable in Japan (otaku culture being the exception).

So many people pushing everywhere!
(For every adult head you see in this picture, there are 1-3 children beside them you can't see)

Pikachu!

After escaping the masses, we caught another train over to Nipponbashi to observe the Otaku life (actual class assignment). Nipponbashi is somewhat Osaka's equivalent to a smaller, low-key version of Tokyo's Akihabara district.

Nipponbashi, Osaka City

Found all the manga in Japan

Found all the good manga in Japan

To end the night, myself and a friend wandered through Osaka to track down Fire bomBAR, an otaku bar inspired by the Macross franchise (specifically Macross 7). The place was off some side street of Osaka, tucked away on the 6th floor of some office-like building.

Fire Bombar!!!

The owner runs the place on weekends and weekday nights outside of keeping up a day job. There were about 8 people that showed up, all of them frequent the place and seemed to know each other. While no one spoke much of any English, they were all very friendly and extremely curious how we managed to find it.

Tiny, cozy place that fit about 10 people or so with lots of Macross memorabilia everywhere

Had an awkwardly translated conversation with the owner, who adamantly defended the power of music and anime to bring people together despite language barriers.


The amount of people here can be overwhelming, to be sure. It is really nice to be able to break away from that and find a small, welcoming pocket of people and have more genuinely interesting experiences.