Monday, February 16, 2015

Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri (Star Festival)

Wednesday, we had class off for National Foundation Day. Thanks to my 'Religion in Japan' class, I ended up catching a train over to Kyoto to see the 42nd Agon Shu's Hoshi Matsuri (Stars and Fire Rites Festival). Agon Shu is classified as a Japanese 'New Religion,' and is based in Buddhist practices with strong Shinto influences. 

I wanted to be at the festival for the opening, which meant departing about 7am. (the small group that would have joined me ended up deciding to sleep in last minute...). The train dropped me off at Kiyomizu Station (one of the temples we visited a few weeks back), and instead of taking a transfer to the Kyoto main station and catching the Agon Shu shuttle bus, in a pig-headed moment I decided to walk to the festival grounds. What looked like a half hour walk on the event map turned out to be a couple hour walk on the side of a narrow mountain highway. When I got closer to the festival, I saw an event staff woman holding a sign that said "busu" for 'bus' and I managed to ask if it was still possible to catch the shuttle bus (30 minutes from Kyoto). She laughed and pointed up the mountain and said something about 'climbing.' That ended with me having to hike up the mountain to the festival grounds (with event staff and Agon Shu Yamabushi monks that were directing the shuttle buses all telling me "kiotsukete kudasai" - "please be careful" - read:'are you lost?').

By the time I made it to the festival grounds (just after it started), I was surprised not to see anyone around (where were all the people mobbing everything? this isn't a festival...). I wandered around for a bit until one of the event staff called me over and asked if I spoke English (yes). He then motioned for me to follow and they took my to the information tent, where a Japanese student was working as one of the couple English speaking representatives. My question "where exactly am I?" confused him because we were 30 minutes from Kyoto by bus, and it was probably pretty hard to just 'wander onto the temple grounds.' He pointed in a direction, and tried to explain the event by waving his arms and saying "campfire."

Campfire, indeed. 

Approaching the main festival square, where there is fire
The pyre on the left is the "Goma-dan for the Living" and the right is the "Goma-dan for the Departed"

The Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri commemorates "peace and harmony" for the year. Yamabushi monks and religious members from all generations work tirelessly all day to keep the fire well fed and the logs wet (to contain the fire, I assume).

It's impossible to really get the feel of the event in just pictures, so here's a video link.
Agon Shu Hoshi Matsuri - Youtube


One of many groups performing throughout the festival (lots and lots of people)

When I arrived in the morning, this area was completely empty

Those stuffed gomagi look really happy pre-fire

At the festival, you could buy Gomagi (prayer sticks) at varying prices (100 yen, 1,000 yen, 3,000 yen, 5,000 yen, 10,000 yen each) (100 yen ~= $1). Festival goers write either a wish (for the ShinKai pyre) or the name of a departed one (for the Bukkai Pyre). The gomagi are then handed over, bundled up, and given to the monks to be thrown in the fire with a short prayer.

Gomagi (left says "Buddhahood memorial", right is blank)

The (very small) scattering of foreigners that were at the festival were handed brochures in an English version to explain what was going on (rather thoughtful). One of the pages included a stamp page.

Collecting stamps around the festival area
Gathering all the stamps rewards you with a nice little charm
Walking down to the return shuttle buses, visitors were handed walking sticks
The pictures may not show it, but I ended up staying just about all day just watching people run around and throw prayer sticks into the huge pyres. Definitely a very different experience!



The weekend was much more relaxed, comprising mostly of going out to eat, trying to work on a school paper, and studying. On Sunday, we went out and explored a similar area of Hirakata City. Looked at many, many different electronics stores. Along the way, we stopped at Kappa Sushi (for the conveyor belt/train sushi experience).

Reasonably priced conveyor belt / train sushi!
Train sushi! - Youtube

Yum

Afterwards, we went back to the park I saw a week or so ago (and I completed one more thing off my Japan bucket-list: slide down the giant green slide)!

Wheeeeeeeeee
Sliding down the slide! (mind the sound at beginning, sorry...) - Youtube

2 comments:

  1. I am glad your Dad shared your information with us so we can keep up with you on your journey. Looks like you are having a fun time. Definitely a once in a lifetime experience.

    Take Care,
    Sarah (Hoffmann) Kinsel

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    Replies
    1. Hi Sarah! Good to hear from you. It has been quite the experience! Hope everything is going well for you.

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